After an overnight train from Vinh, we arrive in Danang feeling tired and grubby and slump into the back seat of a taxi for the 45 minute drive down the coast to Hoi An. As we pass the beaches where the Americans first landed in Vietnam during the war, instead there now stand mammoth luxury resorts. We finally arrive at the hotel and decide a few hours’ kip are in order, but when building works and a rather loud drill start mere minutes after our arrival, we decide to head into town instead to explore.

Hoi an - Street scene

Our hotel is a 15 minute walk from the old town along a rather busy, noisy and dirty main road. But as we turn off towards the river, the scene is very different. French colonial architecture, old fishing boats, cute bars and cafes, a bustling market.  In many ways, very similar to Luang Prabang and just as charming.

Hoi An - Old French buildings

Having survived on crisps and biscuits for the last two days, we decide to sample some classic Hoi An food. We choose Cao Lau, a dish of noodles, greens and pork, White Rose, shrimp wrapped in rice paper, and More >